Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve land from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a barrier on